Got Caught in the Blades

Playing around the windmill, she’s alright now though.  

Moulin-à-Vent is one of ten important villages in the central-north area of Beaujolais.  The area has more hills than the Côte-d’Or with some vineyards even situated on the Beaujolais mountains.  The dramatic shifts in landscape and soil types make for expressive variations of the Gamay grape.   Moulin-à-Vent and the other nine Cru Beaujolais are nothing like the unfortunate mass-marketed Beaujolais Nouveau and really shouldn’t be mentioned in the same breath.  Moulin-à-Vent is often considered the richest and darkest, most long lived of all the crus, often being compared to fine Burgundy.  The soils here are abundant in iron and manganese which put extra stress on vines.  Too much of these elements will be toxic for grapes (just like too much manganese in the human body will cause neurological disorders) but just the right amount  will naturally lower yields and produce grapes of great concentration and character.

2009 Domain Gerard Charvet Moulin-à-Vent “La Reserve au Amelie”, $18.  Imported by Wine Traditions.

Most examples of Moulin-à-Vent can come with a price tag, Charvet’s is a great value and a great example of what the village can produce.  It is plump and mineral and smells like sex.  The press refers to the 09 vintage as perfect, plenty of sunshine, just the right amount of rain and dry enough to make a bountiful, ripe harvest producing wines of great body and immediate pleasure. “La Reserve au Amelie” is tasting great now, I would be curious to sock away a few bottles to taste what happens in a few years.

Here are The Smothers Brothers singing about their favorite wine.

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